Pamplona Goes Wild: What San Fermín and the Running of the Bulls Are Really Like

Every summer, thousands of people pour into the Spanish city of Pamplona for San Fermín. It's loud, it's chaotic, and honestly there's nothing else quite like it anywhere. Below I've pulled together the history behind the running of the bulls and a bit of what actually makes this festival tick, in case you're thinking of going yourself.

So what is San Fermín?

It's a yearly festival in Pamplona, Spain, and it runs for nine days. The main event, the one everyone's heard of, is the Running of the Bulls. But there's a lot more going on around it: bullfights, concerts, parties spilling out onto the streets, all sorts. You'll see crowds everywhere in traditional dress, mostly that famous red and white combination.

A bit of history

The Running of the Bulls goes back centuries in Pamplona. It happens during the nine days of San Fermín, a festival named for the saint who, as the story goes, was martyred by being dragged to death by bulls.

The tradition itself started in the 14th century. Back then men would dress up as bulls and chase people through the streets, which sounds absurd now but there you go. Over the years it turned into something more structured, with six bulls let loose each morning of the festival. The route is 875 meters long and the whole thing is over in about three minutes.

These days it's a genuine tourist draw, pulling in over a million visitors a year. Make no mistake, it's still dangerous. Every year there are serious injuries in the hundreds, and deaths do happen. And yet people keep coming, because for a lot of them it's a once-in-a-lifetime kind of thrill.

What to expect at San Fermín

The festival lands on the same dates every year, July 6-14, and packs those nine days with events. The Running of the Bulls is the headline act.

If you're going, here's roughly what you're in for.

The bull run first. Every morning at 8am sharp, six bulls are released into the streets of Pamplona and they charge for about 2km before they reach the bullring. There are barriers and gates set up along the way to keep both the bulls and the people out of serious trouble, at least in theory.

Want to watch rather than run? A few things worth knowing. Grab your spot along the route well before 8am, because once those bulls are out you won't be able to shuffle around. Don't press yourself right up against the barriers either, since a bull can and sometimes does clear them. And keep your wits about you the whole time. If one comes your way, move, and move fast.

Beyond the run, the week is stuffed with other things: traditional dances and music, religious ceremonies, and bullfights every afternoon. Food and drink flowing pretty much nonstop, too.

A few tips for actually enjoying it

  1. Get there early. Things kick off at 8am sharp, and if you want a decent view of the run you'll need to claim your spot ahead of the crowds. An hour or two beforehand is about right.
  2. Dress the part. Loads of people turn up in traditional Spanish gear, so if you'd rather blend in than stand out, pack some red and white.
  3. Expect the unexpected. The bulls are wild animals and they don't follow a script, so stay alert. Not comfortable being near the action? Watch from a distance, no shame in it.
  4. Have fun. It's a once-in-a-lifetime sort of thing for most people, so soak up every minute.

Where to stay

San Fermín draws a global crowd to Pamplona every year, and the Running of the Bulls, which starts on the first day, is the reason most of them are there.

Which means you'll need somewhere to sleep, and there are a handful of ways to sort that out.

You could book one of Pamplona's many hotels. Prices and amenities are all over the map, so most budgets can find a fit, provided you book far enough ahead.

Renting an apartment or a house is another route, and a good one if you want more room or a bit more privacy than a hotel gives you.

Then there's camping. There are several sites near Pamplona, and if you're watching your spending this can be the cheapest way in. Just do your homework beforehand so you know what you're signing up for.

Whichever you pick, you probably won't spend much time there beyond sleeping it off.

Where to eat

Come hungry, because you'll want to know where to eat once you're here. Pamplona's got no shortage of good spots, whether you're after old-school Spanish cooking or something a touch more modern.

For the traditional stuff, make your way to Bar Txoko on Calle Estafeta. It's a well-loved place doing pintxos (those little bites you eat standing at the bar) and tapas, plus bigger plates if you've worked up an appetite. If you really want to fill up, order the txuleta de buey, a grilled beef steak that does not mess around.

Fancy something different? Try La Cuchara de San Telmo on Callejon del Humo. This Basque-style spot runs an inventive menu, think foie gras with quince jam, or squid ink risotto. Go here when you want a meal that surprises you a little.

And you can't leave Pamplona without a proper local wine. Head to Bodega Irache on Calle Santo Domingo for some of Navarra's best vintages. They run free tastings every single day, so you get to try before you commit.

Staying safe if you're running

  1. Learn the rules before you run. Read up on the regulations governing the event first, because it genuinely cuts your odds of getting hurt or causing a pile-up.
  2. Wear the right clothes and shoes. You need to move quickly and safely, so skip anything that might trip you or slow you down.
  3. Watch everything around you. The bulls aren't the only danger out there, other runners lose track of where they're going all the time.
  4. Don't try to outrun them. You can't, they're faster than you. Focus on getting out of the way and letting them pass.
  5. If you go down, don't panic. Stay put, cover your head with your arms and curl into a ball until the bulls have gone by.

Not into running? Other ways to do the festival

The idea of sprinting alongside a herd of bulls isn't for everyone, and that's completely fine. You can catch the run from a safe perch in one of the bars or restaurants along the route, or from a balcony overlooking the street, which is honestly the civilised way to do it. Prefer something calmer? The live music and dance run all week, and there's plenty of good local food and wine to work through. None of that requires going anywhere near a bull.

Final thoughts

Pamplona's festival sticks with you. The run itself, the dances, the costumes, the general madness of it all, there's a lot to take in over those nine days. If a proper, slightly wild cultural experience is what you're after, put San Fermín's Running of the Bulls near the top of your list. Sort your tickets, pack the red and white, and go see it for yourself.