Ever come across the San Juan Bonfires Festival? If it's new to you, honestly, you're in for something special. It plays out in the Spanish town of Seville, and both locals and visitors throw themselves into it every year. People have been marking it for centuries, and it's the moment that says summer has properly arrived. From the 20th to the 24th of June, fires get lit right across the city as part of the tradition. Stick with me and I'll walk you through where it came from and how you can get stuck in yourself.

So what exactly is the San Juan Bonfires Festival?

At its core it's part religious, part cultural, and it happens in June in loads of towns across Spain. The date lines up with the summer solstice, that point when the sun climbs highest, and it also honours Saint John the Baptist, who was born on June 24th.

The fires themselves are usually stacked from logs, sticks and straw, then set going once darkness falls. And people don't just watch. They leap over the flames or dance around them, and in certain places you'll see effigies of well-known figures or cartoon characters go up in smoke.

Things tend to kick off with a mass or a procession, and after that it turns into a proper party, with music and food stalls everywhere. It's a laugh, yes, but there's more to it than that. It's a chance for a community to gather and celebrate what it means to be Spanish.

A bit of history

In San Juan, Puerto Rico, this one goes back a long way. It falls on the eve of the Feast of Saint John the Baptist, which lands on June 24th. The fires go up on the night of June 23rd in his honour, built the old-fashioned way from wood and palm fronds, and the celebration folds in music, food and dancing too.

Nobody's entirely sure where it all began, though the trail seems to lead back to Spain. The earliest documented celebration dates to 1788, when Don Diego de Gardoqui y Loyola, then the Spanish Governor of Puerto Rico, gave the order for bonfires to be lit for Saint John the Baptist. What started there stuck. The people of San Juan took it to heart, and before long other cities across Puerto Rico had picked it up.

These days it's one of the island's biggest celebrations. Every year thousands make their way to San Juan to be part of it. The fires get built from all sorts now, paper, cardboard, even plastic bottles, but the timing hasn't budged. They still go up on the night of June 23rd, still in Saint John's name.

What actually goes on during the festival

Over in San Juan de los Morros, in the Venezuelan state of Miranda, this is a fixture people wait for all year. Come the night of the 23rd of June, the fires are lit to mark St. John the Baptist, and the whole thing draws people in from across Venezuela and well beyond, from other South American countries and further afield.

The bonfires here are put together from palm tree wood, and they're no small thing, some climbing to 15 meters. They're dressed up with flowers, candles and flags, then set alight at midnight. From then on it's dancing round the flames to traditional Venezuelan music, right through the night.

There's a parade in the mix as well, with people turned out in traditional Venezuelan costumes. It winds through the streets of San Juan de los Morros before finishing up at the main square, which is where the fires are.

And then there's the Miss Bonfire pageant. It runs during the festival and it's open to young women aged 16 to 20 who live in San Juan de los Morros. Whoever takes the crown becomes Miss Bonfire and represents the festival as its ambassador for the year ahead.

Getting there

Back to San Juan, Puerto Rico, where the festival honours Saint John the Baptist and usually runs for four days. If you fancy going, here's how you'd make the trip:

By Plane: Flying into Luis Munoz Marin International Airport (SJU) is the simplest route. Once you land you can grab a taxi, or use a ride-sharing service like Uber or Lyft to reach the city centre.

By Ferry: You could also come across by ferry from one of the neighbouring islands, say Vieques or Culebra. It's roughly an hour on the water, and it's worth sorting your schedules and tickets online beforehand. When you dock in Old San Juan, the festival is only a short walk away.

By Cruise Ship: Arriving by cruise ship is handy, because you step off right in the middle of Old San Juan. From the port it's just a few minutes on foot to the festival grounds.

A few tips before you go

This one marks the summer solstice, and it's easily one of the busiest nights on the island's calendar. If you're going along, a few pointers to make the day easier:

Get there early: it fills up fast, and turning up ahead of the crowds means a decent spot for watching the fires.

Dress for comfort: the daytime heat can be a lot, so keep your clothing light and easy.

Carry cash: there are food and drink vendors dotted about, and having cash on you saves the hassle.

Expect it to be loud: the noise builds, so if that bothers you, pack some earplugs or headphones.

And, well, enjoy yourself. This is your window into Puerto Rican culture and its summer nightlife, so get out there and make the most of it.

Final thoughts

However you look at it, the San Juan Bonfires Festival is really about people coming together to see summer in. It's a lively stretch of days in Puerto Rico, fires burning right across the island, music carrying on well into the small hours, and dishes like mofongo and pasteles passed around for everyone to tuck into. So if you're after something with a bit of energy this June, book that ticket to Puerto Rico and come join us at the San Juan Bonfire Festival.